First Surf of the Year

So, after much consideration regarding the physical state of my leg, i decided that it would be a good idea to go surfing today. Me and Albert headed out to shores with my 7'6" and his 6'6". When surf reports say poor conditions, by the by, they truly do mean it. We were continuously pummeled by wave after unforgiving wave for an hour. I found out today what poor conditions meant, and I will not go out to surf until conditions are at least fair. I am by no means a good or even decent surfer and thus, I can not paddle out past the break in poor conditions. I truly think that they should just change that in the surf report from "surf conditions" to "level of surfer needed to get past the break." Then again, maybe that would convince me to go out to surf (due to the teasing of the websites) even when in my heart of hearts, i know I'm not good enough.

Anyways, tossing this day aside, I'm really looking forward to surfing this year. I have a renewed dedication to the sport. I regret the fact that I lost the winter due to my foot, but am glad because I would've gotten killed by those double overhead waves. I hope to make it at least a bi-weekly venture (through the rest of winter and spring) and step it up to at least 3 or 4 times a week in the summer. This is in part because of how much I really love to surf, but in part due to the fact that I've lost Capoeira. I'm currently too poor (and the foot is still not feeling 100% quite yet) to pursue the sport that I love. I plan on training on my own, but it's been quite tough.